Day 19 Peterborough to Kiata

Leaving Willem and Jude's wasn't easy after homemade pancakes with homemade lemon marmalade, lemons , comquat jam and other conserves but eventually we did and headed over glenelg way to pick up some spares for the cruiser from mike off the lcool forum .

A bit of a race through traffic we caught up with mike about lunchtime and grabbed tyres filter and some other goodies at a good price and proceeded out of town with lunch on the minds of the whole family , but being on major roads it wasn't easy so we called in for a very late lunch at a favourite hangout in Hahndorf called Utter Delights a cheese and gourmet shop in the main st .

Hot chocolates all round for the kids , a ham and cheddar baguette for Ej soup and roll for the mrs ,dash and I had homemade crumpets with jam and creme fraiche while Shahla enjoyed a kids baguette pack.

http://udderdelights.com.au

Coffees later we headed on down the dukes just hoping to get over the border for a decent off the road rest area .

Driving in traffic makes you a little weary  it we shared the driving pulling stumps after several food and coffee stops along the way to Kiata .

This rest area was so green after the red centre trip but still chilly and damp.

The camper was unfolded post haste while we pretty much hit the sack and slept solidly through the distant road noise back out on the duke .

Day 18 Glendambo to Willem & Judes Peterborough ( call the fire brigade quick!!!)

The beauty of a motel room was a quick cuppa and brekky in the room before a quick getaway at 8am then back on the road south once more .

About Pimba after admiring the roadside salt lakes and mile long trains we smelt a peculiar smell which at first we thought was the train just in front but then we seen a little smoke and I quickly turned off the road to investigate , we all ran around the car looking for signs then as I opened the bonnet the smoke began to billow out as more air had fed it but I still couldn't pinpoint the smoke ,let alone a fire .

After I pulled all leads dash found it coming from under the tunnel near the exhaust pipe , the sound deadener heat shield  clips had come loose (no doubt  from constant corrugations!) and it had torn a little hanging over the exhaust and bega in to smoulder , I couldn't reach t with water but I did use a drink bottle to squirt cordial upwards but  it didn't have the reach so I grabbed one of the powder extinguishers and had it sorted fairly quickly thank god.

One person out of at least 50 or more actually pulled up to offer assistance but luckily I had it sorted by then ( I must admit I was a bit pissed as I have rendered assistance a few times to grey nomads and other travellers and this time no karma for me!)

I now had a very akward messy job ahead of removing the heat shield to then remover the sound insulating mat , by then covered in irritating dry powder from the fire extinguisher .

All cleaned up we were back on the road again an hour or so later , I was looking forward to port Augusta , with some cheaper fuel and a warning lunch .

Lunch was roast chicken rolls and a trip to the plaza in Port augusta with some warmer pants for me and shoes and a darth vader onesie for Ej.

Dash and Shahla enjoyed the well equipped skate park , making them feel normal after a few weeks back in the car.

Fuel was 148.9 cents per litre so I filled the car and didn't need the jerries full now we were on known territory fuel wise.

A quick text to Willem and Jude and we were in Peterborough 90 odd minutes later .

The kids and adults alike were looking forward to catching up with our south oz counterparts as it had been a while and some planning was afoot for a sojourn next month .

Home made pizzas and red for the older ones finished off our night just lovely.

Day 17 Lamberts centre of Australia to Glendambo S.A

Brrr another chilly central oz morning but what a place to be , you can't get any more central oz than here, I could see the monument just about 70 metres from our flower surrounded camp.

Brekky and cup around the fire and a quick pickup and then a toot to our campsite neighbours from Rockhampton (actually nambibians who had just crossed the Simpson !)

Another windy 12 Kms out on the sandy wildflower covered track then onto Kulgera road where 80 or so Kms later we topped at the roadhouse at the bargain price of $2.09 a litre ( by far the cheapest of our few recent stops !)

Once again on the Stuart highway southbound the kilometres were racking up nicely in short order but we decided to get some lunch at Marla a pleasant little grassed rest area with fuel ,a supermarket and some takeaway shops also a nice but overpriced indigenous art shop.

Little honey eaters were swooping quickly between the table we were eating at but he gained no free feed from us today.

Pointing the cruiser down the Stuart hwy again we were thinking of a final fuel top up for our run into Port Augusta and possibly staying the night in a underground room , but unfortunately it was all booked out so we would look at a few days back here soon .

DayLight was fading but doggedly we pushed on to Glendambo a little late but we were relieved to get a  cheap and nasty room for the night to save us setting up and then cooking tea .

2 minute gourmet noodles were prepared by the boss as kids had a much deserved shower while I put on a load of clothes as we were running low of clean seets of clothes , we dried the necessary items with the heater as it was cold still since the sun went down .

Adults all showered and clean we settled into a game of battleships and put up with a sick baby screaming most of the night but still slept well .

Day 16 Old Andado station to the geographical centre of Australia

I'm sure last night was the coldest night since we have been travelling , man was it cold , I was in no rush to get up but the sun was beckoning for a pic of a Simpson desert sunrise which Corinna took while putting the kettle on which persuaded me to raise my cold bones out of bed.

Once the sun came up it was quite nice.

Dust had been a bit of an issue over the last week dirtying our almost new looking canvas to a more used look ah well no matter maybe we can clean it when we are off the  dirt track .

Spaghetti on toast was great for us boys with a cuppa while the girls were satisfied with jam on toast.

Packed up reasonably early I agin had to jump start the crank battery off the secondary battery which had been playing up the last few days , at first I suspected a stuck solenoid relay but I now fear its a dud battery which I will remedy back in Bendigo as I still have the secondary , two camper batteries and a smaller backup battery if needed.

The old Andado station was only 50 or so Kms down the track and we made good time down the sandy rutted but well driven track in due course.

The signs said on the map fuel was available but it wasn't so I'm guessing the hema map was either outdated or incorrect , not that we needed any for at least 700 Kms with our jerries still full.

The campground here said we could look in the homestead for a gold coin donation but the signs t the door of the homestead said no admittance so I was a bit unsure so we only ventured around the yards instead certainly old but still very liveable in relative comfort it appears no one lived here except caretakers after Molly Clark moved on .

Plenty of cattle both  the most southern kept brahma and some shorthorns were everywhere on the Andado station with plenty of bores around to keep them watered but fodder still fairly scarce excepting new green pick and wildflowers recently sprouting .

We had toasted ham , cheese , tomato and pineapple pita breads just after mayfeild bore then skirted along the finke  river diversion past the station and into the Witjira national park that is the border into South Australia and the Simpson desert park region passing a few groups of 4 wders exiting the Simpson desert proper .sandy and full of bull dust the track was soon entering mt dare where there was another diversion into the hotel grounds around the airstrip.

Fuel here was $2.45 per litre but we were still fine till the next day .

We had a celebratory beer and cold drink at the hotel and a bite to eat as we had finally finished Binns track all the way from Timber creek near the north eastern WA border to here some 2100 Kms of off rd 4 wheel driving without out 1400 Kms of detours before and after Kakadu .

We took some obligatory snaps read some local info chatted with the hotel keep who could have been a little bit cheerier but ah well not our worry.

A bit of a rabbit warren to get out of on the many tracks both wet and dry after recent rains soon had us pointing to Charlotte waters the former sight of an ill fated telegraph station then on past the aboriginal town of Finke , passing quite a few south eastern travellers , two of which I gave a serve on th UHF and with hand signals not pleasant as they never slowed an inch while passing on the gibber filled rd possibly causing damage and or an accident.

We took the detour to Lamberts geographical centre of Australia and decided to camp the night in this beautiful wildflower filled park with only one other traveller.

It seems upon chatting with them before tea they may have met another South African , Willem a few years back by all accounts , what a coincidence and they were very pleased with his travelling knowledge much like most of us who know him and Jude whom we shall see in a few days time.

Decent firewood is scarce here so we are all of to bed after watching Ej beat dad at battleships.

Ni ni 

Day 15 N'Dhala Gorge- Alice Springs- Old Andado track

the night was so clear we could see so many stars and systems it is amazing to be here alone in peace  

Morning had broken but we wouldn't see sunlight on our camp for awhile yet but we got up and had brekky quickly then took off on our gorge walk chasing the sunlight in the far reaches inside .

Petroglyphs were abundant in this gorge where only initiated men were allowed to walk in past the waterhole , the colours were coming out in the rock as the sun changed its angle over the tight gorge 

Fire had damaged a lot of the area here unfortunately and re growth in arid regions is very slow .

From there we chatted with a Gold Coast couple heading back from Broome who had bad timing as happens when you wish to pack up promptly lol all was good we were just keen to go .

As we headed back through the Ross river and onto the main track back we took a walk through Jessie's gap another little gem of a spot in the Alice region also spotted with paintings of emu stripes and a few petroglyphs as well along the sandy river bed .

Back on the way into town we past some beautiful coloured stones ridge lines similar to rainbow valley on the other side of the range which we would see in the afternoon .

In town one last top up of fuel as sand driving was taking its toll on the economy of the fully laden car and camper.

A quick look over the town from Anzac hill was well worth the detour after picking up yet another two latches to replace the broken arb fridge ones that were were broken or cracked ready to break .

Of course Arb lalice springs  had never heard of this but had the part conveniently ordered in for me from a few days before when we were in there.

So they don't know of any issues with them but they do have a part number and they are for sale ?

The road out past Santa Teresa aboriginal community was quite good but they mind boggles at the sea of green vb cans along the way and at the cattle grid on the way out a large pile of cans just outside the prescribed area.

The little communities tip had more cars than any wreckers I have ever seen and I can't help but wonder how much money they could make if a mobile car metal crusher stayed there to help clean them up ?

I aired down a bit more to accomodate the sandy roads ahead and was a bit tired so looked for camps ahead but owing to aboriginal land and weed protected areas that allowed no roadside stops we camped some 70 Kms before the old Andado homestead at a bush camp marked on the Binns track map we had been using.

We were lucky as there was a fireplace with wood already to use which was a blessing but it wasn't as cold or windy as the nights prior to this .

Day 14 Gemtree to N'Dhala gorge campground

It was another slow start to the day I was keen to roll but bub wasn't so we slowly packed up and left at a late 1045 after brekky and a cuppa and being hassled by some fellow travelling family kids who were nice enough but a little annoying as our kids pointed out lol.

We turned on to Binns track a few Kms back up the plenty then made our way sown south past the zircon fossicking fields that we will come back to next month .

Aired down it was a leisurely days drive through to the Arltunga tourist drive which becomes a lower section of Binns track and eventually snaking into Ambalindum homestead around lunch time where we looked around the old homestead but the caretaker was out fixing a boar so we continued on to the historic Arltunga historic reserve for lunch and a few hours exploring this amazing old settlement that is in surprisingly good Nic with many old buildings still standing proudly and remnants of the old well , gold assayers residence and office , cyanide treatment plants a Cornish horizontal boiler ,gold room  managers residence and then the police station and lockup all of which had a great story of yesteryear to tell.

Lunch and tourist duties done we looked for a campsite and gave the Arltunga pub the once over but it was a little early to stop for the day we agreed .

The road veered around to the Ross river region which has great spans of hillside vista to take in like an old fortress the range looked like from below .

We snaked out way across the Ross river 6 times , 3 wet , 3 sandy and dry the first crossing a fair depth of just over 600 mm with duckweed gathering on the bottom of the camper and car then we spotted the perfect place here at N'Dhala gorge all to ourselves at a bargain nt parks family price of $7.70 where we enjoyed a magnificent roast tandoori chook and veg but a roaring  toasty fire  followed but the customary hot chocolates and marshmallows yummy.

Although not as cold as the last few nights we were in need of a relatively early night with only myself up till 930 deciphering  the days events here for you.

The fire is only coals now and the wind almost gone so I retire as well for the evening .

Day 13 Gemtree & day out in Alice springs

It's very tempting to stay in bed on a cold morning but I thought we would duck into Alice Springs a mere 140 Kms away 70 heading west on the plenty highway then the other 70 down the Stuart hwy where we needed fuel , all the jerries plus nearly all the car as well , and of course it was territory day so we were psyched about buying fireworks , a first for the kids and over 25 years for Corinna and I .

We managed find the biggest supplier just in the industrial estate just after we had some brekky at maccas and a decent coffee.

Fireworks were definitely cheaper as a kid I seem to recall, but we got some angry bird ones some amazing little bumble bees and a backyard blitz pack and the boss threw  4 extra packs in for us .

Some track suit pants jumpers were next in order for the tin lids then some essential groceries and of course wait till 2 pm to wait till the bottle shops opened as we had been fairly dry on beverages the last few day and timber creek was too dear and we were too early at Katherine.

A stop at the car parts store for a few bolts I seem to have lost after the new tie rod ends were fitted in good ol dodgy Darwin.

There was no hope of us doing the unlimited speed while heading in  to Alice or back to Gemtree in the cruiser with fuel and fireworks and a full weight of touring goodies but it was funny watching others try to ramp it up.

Back at Gemtree the nights entertainment was getting ready and we had pre booked our dinner , a territory burger ( big and tasty).

New bolts fitted ,car batteries on charge along with anything else electronically charged and I fitted bikes back to the roofrack ready to leave the next morning.

Down to the Billabong bar we walked and shared a table with some German travellers from Hamburg , lovely friendly people who mostly spoke good English .

The nights festivities had begun but I was the only adult to volunteer for the territory bush Olympics so I let the younger kids go instead , 5 events with five kids , tyre rolling ,snake tossing, pademelon mustering and branding boomerang throwing and aboriginal dot art painting .

Dash was last to go but he had been strategising and won the event nearly a minute quicker than any other , go vics go travelling Filbeys!! He won a sample bag of tourist paraphernalia that was quite good half of which he shared with all the other competitors which was a nice token .

The fireworks were starting wow did they go in forever it was great although one did start a quickly extinguished scrub fire and two shot off into the crowd deeply upsetting a few nomads but no one was hurt and all was good .

What a great night Kate and Aaron put on for their guests ,well worth it but after yakking with them for all hours I think the mrs was a little tipsy lol.

Back to camp I enjoyed another campfire and some Margaret river red  till a fair bit later with our Kerang guests Kevin and Wyn Oliver and we both knew of each other's friends from town when we lived there.

I slept like a baby till 8ish the next morning .

What a busy day .